Figure 1: Chipped right front tooth. Figure 2: Molded purple putty.

In my last article “Anterior Resin Restorations: Which Resin Do I Use?”, I wanted to give a quick overview of the many different composite resin materials available, as well as their ideal area of use. In this article we're going to put that information to use and describe a technique that I have learned from leading clinicians for completing Class IV resin restorations (as well as for adding to incisal edges) that is predictable, straightforward and will blend in naturally to the surrounding tooth structure.

For this patient a shade was immediately taken to avoid the tooth from desiccation and having an impact on the final outcome of shade selection. Often, one of the struggles with developing your final restoration in cases like this is the ability to reproduce the anatomy of the loss tooth structure. You can either freehand it (which I find difficult to do, especially in the mouth) or you can make it easier by developing a guide to work off of (great for cases that you already have models and have had waxed up). In this instance, the patient was an emergency case (Fig. 1) and was anesthetized; an alginate impression was made by the assistant and poured in a fast setting stone (Snap – Stone from Whipmix).

Once the stone was set (usually in five minutes or less), the assistant can add wax or old composite in the area of the fracture and then develop a lingual putty stent (Fig. 2). After it set hard, remove the stent and trim the facial aspect back to the facial incisal line angle (Fig. 3, green line). Seat the putty stent in the mouth and check for a passive fit, and scribe a line in the putty with an explorer (Fig. 3, black line) along the area that is fractured.

Figure 3: Molded putty with location of the chip indicated with a black line. Figure 4: Front tooth chip marked in yellow.

You can isolate the tooth and complete an initial 45⁰ bevel (Fig. 4, marked in blue) and then feather your finish line out in an irregular pattern to help blend in your final restoration (Fig. 4, marked in yellow). Complete your bonding procedure using your bonding system of choice and you are now ready for the next step. Place a thin layer of composite in the matrix to the scribe line and pull the composite resin up onto the incisal edge (facial-incisal line angle) as well as the mesial and distal line angles (Fig. 5).

Figure 5: Molded putty with the tooth repair in yellow. Figure 6: Repaired front chipped tooth.

For this layer, I like to use an enamel shade in a microhybrid and of course, you can now use the nanohybrid composites. The main reason for this is for strength and support of the final restoration. Now, place it in the mouth, align it with the tooth and apply pressure. This should allow nice adaption to the tooth and you can now cure it and remove the matrix (Fig. 6). You now have a perfect place to layer composite and develop the restoration to blend it perfectly with the adjacent teeth and only requires minor polishing to remove any flash and minimizes finishing. In the next series, I will show you a brief overview of the layering technique that is used to help you complete a natural restoration.

Jeff Lineberry DDS, Visiting Faculty, Spear Education [ www.jefflineberrydds.com ]



Comments

Commenter's Profile Image Sharon Goodwin
September 23rd, 2013
Hi Jeff; thank you for demonstrating such a nice way to use composite to build a class 4 restoration! Where exactly do you apply the etch and the bond? Do you place a bevel and an irregular feather finish line on the lingual aspect of the prep also and then place your etch and bond there as well as on the facial bevel? Do you place a translucent enamel layer first and then do you place a dentin layer of the shade that was matched the tooth and then finish with the same enamel layer you placed on the lingual? What is your prefered composite system? Co you like Venus diamond? Thank you!!!
Commenter's Profile Image Jeff Lineberry, DDS
September 23rd, 2013
Sharon I always place my etch and bond past my finish line to ensure that if there is any flash present, it will not collect stain/discoloration underneath it. On the lingual, I place a bevel only as the irregular feather finish line is not needed to "hide the margin" and would also lead itself to chipping under function. Yes, I usually place a translucent layer first (it is a microhybrid or nanohybrid for strength). In the next series, I will cover the layering technique. My preferred composite system has been a combination of Esthet-X and Renamel microfill, but I have recently started to use some of the other systems, and I am finding that I like them as well (some are less sticky, some have different optical properties, etc.). Yes, I have used Venus Diamond and I like how it handles(I have used it at some of the hands-on courses). If you haven't used it yet, ask your local rep for samples. I love getting samples to try from different manufactures-I get to "try before I buy"! Thanks for your questions and stay tuned for the layering process in the next series....